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Illustrations of Ottomans circa 1790 from

Costumes Turcs
Diez Album Vol. I

vI f.5 Grand-Seigneur sur le trone avec un orf sur la tête, et un habit de cérémonie. He wears a round white turban (örf) with a plume. White kaftan with sable lining.
vI f.6 Grand-Seigneur en habit et turban de cérémonie He wears a large aigrette (sorguç), and a sable-lined green kaftan.
vI f.7 Gr. Seignr en Teptil ou incognito He wears a green sable-lined ferace with long sleeves. He has a yellow kuşak (shawl) over his head.
vI f.8 [Chab Zadé : fils du grand seigneur, le sultan] Very young boy, probably the heir to the throne, i.e. the future Selim III (d. 1807). Wearing a kâtibî kavuk with a sorguç in a jewelled holder. Pink and white kaftan with large sleeves.
vI f.10 Bostangi Bachi en habit ordinaire. Bostancı başı. Chief of the bostancıs (originally the gardeners) and commander of the Imperial Guard, having jurisdiction over the shores and waters of the Bosphorus. Also responsible for the execution of high-ranking wrong-doers. Scarlet kaftan lined with grey fur (astrakhan?) which has long cuffs. Kâtibî kavuk.
vI f.11 Selictar Aga en cérémonie. The Silâhdar ağa, keeper of the Sultan's sword, in ceremonial costume. Constantly in attendance upon the Sultan, he was the go-between for the Sultan and his officials. He supervised ceremonials and was responsible for the discipline of the pages amongst numerous other duties and had a large staff of servants, himself. Holding the sword in a jewelled scabbard over his shoulder, he is wearing a red kaftan with a gold design and long flaps. He has a high dark blue head-dress with a gold brim.
vI f.12 Skemnigi Porte tabouret du Grand-Seigneur. İskemleci, the stool carrier. The stool was used by the Sultan to mount his horse. Fur-lined kaftan with huge sleeves.
vI f.13 Kapisilar Kiahia gassi ou premier Capidgi Bachi The kapıcılar Kâhyası (or kethüdası). The head of the kapıcıs, or gate-keepers. Wearing the tall white turban (mücevveze) worn by officials, carrying a staff (asa). White and gold kaftan with a sable lining and huge sleeves.
vI f.14 Sarikychi Bachi, Porte-Turban du Gr. Seignr. Sarıkcı başı, chief of the turban folders, who was in charge of the servants who looked after the Sultan's turbans. He is carrying a turban on a turban stand and wearing a kâtibî kavuk with a green cap. Sable-lined red kaftan with long cuffs.
vI f.15 Mataradgi, porteur d'eau pour le Grand Seigneur en cérémonie. Mataracı wearing the kece, janissary head-dress with a white felt flap at the back and a gold brim. Carrying a jewelled water-pot (matara). He was promoted from the ranks of the kapıcıs of the Second Gate and was always in attendance upon the Sultan. Green fur-lined kaftan.
vI f.16 Mussaf-Cherif. Mushaf Şerif, the Sacred Kuran. Carried by an official wearing a sable-lined green kaftan and a head-dress (with a white flap) which has a gold brim and a pointed crown (kuka).
vI f.18 Itsch-Aga de première sorte. İç Ağa, officer of the Imperial Interior Service (Enderun-i Hümayün). He is wearing the 'love-locks' associated with the Zülüflü ranks and the tall thimble-shaped cap (külâh-i peyk) of the peyks. White robe with horizontal gold stripes.
vI f.19 Itsch-Aga de la seconde sorte. The İç Ağa who was the second [type of] officer of the Inner Palace. Wearing the külâh-i peyk but with a 'horn' on each side resembling the popular idea of a Viking helmet. He is also wearing the 'love-locks'. Pale blue kaftan and white şalvar. Külâh-i peyk as in f18 (1974,0617,0.12.1.18).
vI f.20 Itsch-Aga de la troisième sorte. The İç Ağa who was the third [type of] officer of the Inner Palace. Wearing the külâh-i peyk with one 'horn'. Pale green kaftan and red şalvar. 'Love-locks'.
vI f.22 Cavehdgi Bachi, Premier Caffetier du Gr. Seigneur en habit de cérémonie. Kahveci başı, chief of the coffee-makers whose task it was to make coffee for the Sultan and who was in charge of all the coffee-making equipment. Carrying a vessel under a gold and red cloth, he is wearing a kâtibî kavuk with a dark blue cap. Pink kaftan and red şalvar.
vI f.23 Itschoglans-Tschaus İç oğlan çavuş. Guard, attendant and messenger attached to the İç oğlan pages. Kâtibî kavuk with a green cap. Yellow kaftan with a floral design and large cuffs.
vI f.24 Hünkâr başı çuhadar. First in rank among the çuhadar servants, he was the Sultan's valet. Wearing a kâtibî kavuk with a green cap and an aigrette. Orange kaftan with a floral design and red şalvar.
vI f.25 Sir-Kiatip, en habit de cérémonie. Ser katibi, the Sultan's confidential secretary, who followed the Sultan in processions carrying his writing materials in a gold embroidered bag. Wearing a turban, with a dark green cap. His badge of office, a pencase (divit), is tucked in his belt and he carries a blue and gold bag slung over his shoulder by a gold strap. Pink kaftan with turned-back white cuffs.
vI f.26 Musdedgi. Müjdeci, a messenger who carried good news, especially one who announced the safe return of the pilgrim caravan from Mecca. Carrying a book he is wearing a turban with a pink cap and a gold aigrette on the brim. Brown sleeveless kaftan with long flaps. Blue robe with voluminous sleeves.
vI f.27 Satir Bachi du Gr. Seignr. Şâtır başı, the superintendent of the Şâtırs who were running footmen and who accompanied the Sultan as part of his bodyguard, in processions or on campaign. Wearing the large hat which is of a 'lampshade' shape. Red mid-calf length white tunic, long cuffs.
vI f.28 Ast-chi Bachi cuisinier. The Aşçı başı, the chief of the cooks. Wearing a high pointed cap (sivri külâhi), white with a gold stripe (sarık teli). Green kaftan tucked into his belt, in front. Red şalvar.
vI f.29 Tazigi effendi. Tazegi efendi, a schoolmaster or pupil-teacher. Wearing a red cap (barata) which folds over to give a flap at the back. Holding a book and a pencase (divit). Another pencase tucked in his belt. Orange kaftan tucked in his belt in front.
vI f.31 Rickiab-Solack Rikâb Solak, the stirrup-holder and one of theh solak bodyguards. Wearing the huge plume (süpürge sorguçlu), which was a feature of the solaks' head-dresses, and a stiff black aigrette on the white pointed cap (kuka) which has a gold brim, Orange kaftan with long flaps, tucked into his kuşak. Red şalvar.
vI f.32 Chasseki-Bostangi en habit de cérémonie. Haseki bostancı, a sergeant-at-arms of the Imperial Guard. Red cap (barata). Wearing a sword and holding a staff (asa). Kaftan tucked into his belt in front. Red şalvar.
vI f.33 Peik. Peyk or page. Wearing the tall thimble-shaped gold hat (külâh-i peyk) with a plume in a holder. Carrying a halberd. Pink tunic tucked into his belt has very long sleeves and large cuffs.
vI f.34 Baltagis Baltıcı, a halberdier attched to the Sultan's palace. Carrying a long metal staff (asa). Tall pointed brown hat (sivri külâhi) with a red brim. Green shawl (kuşak) with a floral design over his left shoulder. Orange kaftan tucked into his belt in front. Wide red trousers to below the knee.
vI f.36 Agiam oglan sadé. Overseer of the acemi oğlans. Green kaftan tucked into a red kuşak in front. Knee length wide blue trousers. Broad circular white brim with a yellow and red crown on his hat. Holding a staff.
vI f.37 Zulufli Baltagi fendeur de bois du Sarail. Zülüflü baltacı, a class of palace guards who wore a 'love-lock' down each side of the face. A member of the Baltacıs, originally the woodcutters. Green kaftan tucked into a white belt, red ankle-length trousers. Tall brown hat with red brim tapering to a rounded end.
vI f.38 Adzem-Oglam. Acemi oğlan, one of the pages recruited from foreigners who became bostancıs and baltacıs. Elderly grey-haired man wearing a brown sivri külâhi. Orange kaftan and white belt to which a dagger is attached by a cord. 'Love-locks' down each side of the face.
vI f.39 Halvadgi confiturier. Helvacı, sweet-maker or confectionary cook in the Palace. Green kaftan tucked into a red belt. Red ankle-length wide trousers. White hat with a pointed crown and a red brim.
vI f.40 Caikchi batelier. Kayıkcı, a boatman. Red sleeveless tunic, voluminous white sleeves, yellow kuşak in four folds, wide blue trousers to below the knee.
vI f.42 Kislar Aga, premier Eunuque noir. Kızlar ağası, the chief black eunuch of the Harem. Wearing a red kaftan with red flaps and sleeves and with brown fur lining, yellow kuşak, white robe. High white turban (mücevveze) as worn by officials of the Palace.
vI f.43 Chasnadar Aga, en habit de cérémonie. Hazinedar ağa, the second black eunuch of the Imperial Household. Wearing a green kaftan with flaps and sleeves and a brown fur lining. Red kuşak, white robe and a kâllavî with the sarık teli (gold band) diagonally across it.
vI f.44 Eunuque noir, de la commune sort. One of the black eunuchs employed in the Harem. Wearing a white kaftan tucked into a red and gold belt. Wide red ankle-length trousers. Carrying a metal-covered dish. High white turban with a flat top.
vI f.45 Ak-Aga, Eunuque blanc. Akağa, the chief white eunuch of the Palace. Green kaftan with wide sleeves, blue kuşak, white robe with single flower design. High white turban (mücevveze). Holding a staff (asa).
vI f.46 Eunuque, portier du Harem. Oda Eskisi, a senior servant (eunuch) of the Harem. Wearing a dark green kaftan, its ends tucked into his broad orange belt to which a dagger is attached by a cord. Wide red trousers to below the knees. Tall white turban, narrowing and divided at the top, with a red brim. Holding a staff.
vI f.50 Grande Visir en habit de cérémonie Grand Vizier (Sadrazam or Vezir-i âzam). Grey-bearded, wearing a white kaftan with flaps and sleeves and with a brown fur lining and edging. He has the same kind of high white turban (kâllavî), thick-brimed, tapering to a round end and with the gold band (sarık teli) diagonally around it. Wearing a ring on his right hand little finger.
vI f.51 Musur Aga. Mısır Ağa, Bey of Egypt. Grey-bearded, wearing a green kaftan with large sleeves and a brown lining. He has a white hat with a wide gold brim and a crown rising diagonally to a point, with a large black aigrette in a gold holder.
vI f.52 Satir du Grand Visir, en habit de cérémonie Şâtır, a running footman who formed part of a bodyguard. Green kaftan, turned up in front and tucked into a broad gold belt, has very long cuffs. Wearing a kâtibî kavuk and wide red trousers (şalvar) to below the knee. Yellow boots.
vI f.53 Alai-Tchaus Alay çavuşu, a colonel of the ushers or heralds, who saw to the discipline and protocol during meetings of the Imperial Council and who served on embassies and as couriers. He is carrying a çevgân or jingling johnny, an instrument which was always carried before the Grand Vizier, It has the appearance of a military ensign, but is composed of many small bells strung on cords which are attached to a staff. He is wearing a dark blue blouse with gold stripes and large cuffs. His belt is fastened by two round metal disks. Wide pink trousers to below the knee. Wearing the kâtibî kavuk with a green cap. He was the leader and marshal of the procession on state occasions.
vI f.54 Tschausch du Gr. Visir en l'accompagnant en guerre. Çavuş on campaign. He is carrying a çevgân or jingling johnny, an instrument which was always carried before the Grand Vizier. It has the appearance of a military ensign, but is composed of many small bells strung on cords which are attached to a staff. Wearing a pink caftan, two pistols tucked into his belt at the back, sword in a scabbard on a sword sling. Kâtibî kavuk has a blue cap.
vI f.55 Satir du Grand Visir en l'accompagnant en guerre. Şâtır, or running footman, in his campaign costume. Wearing a scarlet kaftan (with long cuffs) tucked into the front of his belt. Wide red trousers (şalvar) to below the knee. His turban (kâtibî kavuk) has a purple cap. He has a sword in a scabbard on a sword sling, and a matchlock.
vI f.56 Janissary de la garde du Grand Visir au camp Yeniçeri, who guards the Grand Vizier in the encampment. His green kaftan is tucked into the belt in front, wide dark blue knee breeches, white stockings and high red boots. A cloak over his right shoulder which is tied by a cord, is possibly a leopard skin (white with black spots). He has two pistols and his janissary head-dress (kece) is white with a green brim and has a gold (empty) plume-holder. He is holding a spear.
vI f.57 Caimeskan. Kaymakam, a lieutenant-colonel. Bearded, he is wearing a red ferace or kaftan with long red flaps and tight sleeves, brown fur lining, collar and sleeve strips. He is wearing a white turban tapering to a rounded end (kâllavî) with a diagonal gold band (sarık teli).
vI f.58 Kiahiabé du Gr. Visir, en habit ordinaire. Kâhya bey, the Grand Vizier's lieutenant. Wearing a green kaftan with large sleeves and a brown fur lining. His kâtibî kavuk has a red cap.
vI f.59 Tefterdar Effendi. Defterdar, accountant or treasurer. Wearing a sleeveless red kaftan with long flaps and a brown fur collar, edging and lining. White cotton sleeves. Wearing the high white official turban (mücevveze).
vI f.60 Tsausch Bachi. Çavuş başı, the chief of the çavuş officials. Wearing a sleeveless kaftan which is white with a gold horizontal striped sash (kuşak) and with a brown fur lining and edging. Dark green robe and an orange belt. Wearing the high white official turban (mücevveze). Carrying a staff (asa).
vI f.61 Reis Effendi. Re'îs efendi, a recording secretary of the divan. Later the post became of important ministerial rank. Wearing a yellow kaftan with wide sleeves, a white robe with a single flower design and a large turban of which the crown is dark green. It has wide folds with a brim composed of narrow strips
vI f.62 Beiliktschi Effendi, en habit ordinaire. Belikçi, a director of the three chancery bureaux. Wearing a green kaftan with large sleeves and a brown fur lining and edging, red sash (kuşak) with a floral design and wearing the high white official turban (mücevveze) with a large circular crown is red. Holding a scroll.
vI f.63 Muteferica Tsausch. Müteferrika çavuş. The çavuş of the Imperial Guard, one of the élite. Wearing a green kaftan, or biniş, with very wide sleeves. Tall white turban, widening at the top, with a plume in the gold plume-holder.
vI f.64 Drogeman de la Porte en habit d'été. Tercüman, interpreter. Dark blue kaftan, or biniş, with very wide sleeves and a brown fur hat, in shape similar to a busby (kuka) holding a scroll.
vI f.65 Choader du Drogeman de la Porte. Çuhadar of the Tercüman, a messenger or servant of the Interpreter. Maroon kaftan tucked into his blue kuşak in front, striped robe and a brown fur hat widening at the top. A pen and ink case is attached to his sash by a chain.
vI f.67 Mufti. Müfti. Official interpreter of the sacred law of Islam. Wearing a white kaftan with very wide sleeves and brown fur lining and edging. Very large white round turban. Holding an open book (Kuran?) with a red binding.
vI f.68 Kadileskier, en habit de cérémonie. Kadılasker or Kazasker, the chief military judge. Wearing a green sleeveless kaftan with long flaps, and a brown fur lining and edging, a white robe with a flower design and a red kuşak. Very large white round turban.
vI f.69 Stamboul - Effendi. Istanbul Efendisi or kadisı, the canon law judge of Istanbul. Wearing a green kaftan with large sleeves, a white robe with a red flower design, a pink and blue kuşak and a very large white round turban.
vI f.70 Nakibul - Escherif, chef des Emirs. Nakıbüleşraf, chief of the Seyyids or descendants of the Prophet. Green kaftan with brown fur lining and edging and a green turban.
vI f.71 Divan Effendi, Sécrétaire d'un Mufti, ou Kadileskier ou Stamboul Effendi, en habit ordinaire. Divan Efendisi, who was the official secretary of Müfti, Kadılasker or kadisı, and also of a vizier or governor of a province. Sark blue kaftan with very wide sleeves. Writing on a scroll with a pen.
vI f.72 Nagif Effendi, qui est de la police de la Ville. Nakib, warden of a community or a guild, later a policeman. Dark green kaftan with large sleeves. Green turban would round a close-fitting dark blue
vI f.73 Iman, en habit ordinaire, quand il crie sur un Minaret. Müezzin or one who calls to prayer. Wearing a yellow kaftan, wide ankle-length trousers. Standing with his hands raised.
vI f.75 Chodziachian en cérémonie. Hoca, a visiting professor who taught in the Palace School. Wearing a dark blue sleeveless kaftan with long flaps and brown fur lining and edging. His tall white turban, widening at the top, has a red cap.
vI f.76 Culacas chaous. Kullukçu çavuş. The çavuş, or usher, attached to the Janissaries. Green kaftan with wide sleeves, striped red robe, blue sash and a kâtibî kavuk with a red cap, gold plume-holder and plume.
vI f.77 Chasas Bachi, chef des bourreaux. Kassas başı, head of the executioners. Wearing a green kaftan with wide sleeves and a brown fur lining, and the white turban of the 'lampshade' design. Holding a staff (asa).
vI f.80 Jannissaire, Capidgi de l'Aga des Jannissaires. Kapıcı, doorkeeper to the chief of the Janissaries (yeniçeris). Wearing a dark blue kaftan tucked into his broad pink and gold kuşak in front, wide scarlet knee breeches and high red boots. White Janissary head-dress (kece) with a gold brim and no plume-holder. Holding a staff (asa)
vI f.81 Choader du Yenitcher Aga. Çuhadar (messenger or servant) of the yeniçeri Aga or chief of the Janissaries. Green kaftan with sleeves wide at the top and tight over the forearms, and tucked into his wide red and gold kuşak in front. Red-striped robe and wide red trousers. Wearing a dagger.
vI f.82 Dovadgi, Serviteur de l'Aga des Jannissaires. Deveci (deveciler = name of the first five regiments of the Janissaries). Wearing a dark blue kaftan and a white cap (kuka) which tapers to a rounded end and had a broad green brim.
vI f.84 Turnadgi en habit de cérémonie Turnaçı, keeper of the palace cranes, in ceremonial costume. Wearing a yellow kaftan with short sleeves, long flaps and a brown fur lining and edging over a white robe. White cap (kuka) which tapers to a rounded end and had a broad gold brim and very large aigrette (süpürge sorguçlu) in a gold holder.
vI f.85 Chorbadgi en habit de cérémonie Çorbaçı, colonel of the Janissaries, in ceremonial costume. Wearing a red kaftan with short sleeves, long flaps and a snow leopard (?) fur lining (white with black spots) and edging over a blue robe. White cap (kuka) which tapers to a rounded end and had a broad gold brim with a huge ostrich feather aigrette (süpürge sorguçlu) and a smaller black feather aigrette in gold holders.
vI f.86 Chorbadgi en habit ordinaire. Çorbaçı wearing an orange kaftan with the ends tucked into a broad white belt, over a green flower-patterned robe and wide red trousers to the ankles. He is wearing a very high white turban which has a green central panel.
vI f.87 Caracoludgi de 5 oda. Karakullukçu of the fifth oda (room) of the Janissary barracks, and officer of the Janissaries responsible for discipline. Wearing a short green tunic with brown fur lining and edging. Silver belt, wide blue trousers to below the knee, embroidered stockings. Wearing a high red and gold cap with red cords, he has a whip (with seventeen thongs) in his belt.
vI f.88 Oda bachi des Jannissaires en habit ordinaire. Oda başı, janitor [commander] of the barracks, a corporal [2nd in command of an orta] of the janissaries. Wearing a dark blue kaftan, red-striped blouse, red kuşak, wide blue trousers and high red boots. His tall white turban has a flat red top.
vI f.90 Jannissaire en habit de cérémonie Janissary in ceremonial costume wearing a green kaftan tucked into his kuşak, yellow blouse, wide blue knee breeches. White Janissary head-dress (kece) with a broad green brim and an empty gold plume-holder. Holding a staff (asa).
vI f.91 Jannissaire habillé en Pirpiri Janissary dressed in a pırpırı, the cloak of red felt worn by a Janissary constable. Blue low-cut blouse, wide blue trousers to the ankles, broad yellow kuşak in three folds, and a dagger. Very large white turban wound in four wide folds round a red cap. Carrying a staff (asa).
vI f.92 Jannissaire avec un Afitabé. The Janissary illustrated has a sword in his right hand and a spear in his left. Wearing a red tunic, with sleeves decorated in black, a blue blouse, blue knee breeches, red leg coverings decorated in black, green kuşak with two pistols. His hat has a rounded yellow crown with a green brim which turns up at the end and which has a device similar to the Star of David in the centre. According to the catalogue the inscription in French implies that he is holding a waterpot.
vI f.93 Lass ou Jannissaire du Trebisond. A soldier or Janissary of Trebizond wearing a sleeveless pink tunic, white blouse with short sleeves, a broad yellow kuşak with three folds, wide blue knee breeches. His green hat has a square crown and a snow-leopard fur (?) brim. He is holding a rapier.
vI f.95 Caracoludgi Karakullukça, an orderly or servant of the Janissaries. Wearing a red tunic with a black design, over a white blouse, a broad brown belt with a metal fastener, wide blue knee breeches and a very large brown turban would in wide folds round a red cap.
vI f.96 Caracoludgis, portant du manger pour les Jannissaires. Two karakullukça (orderlies) carrying a pole on which two cauldrons (kazan) are suspended. Both wear tunics with long cuffs, wide blue knee breeches and broad brown belts and brown busby-shaped hats with red pom-poms.
vI f.97 Ast-chi, cuisinier. Aşçı, cook, carrying the giant ladle (kepçe) which is the emblem of his rank. Wearing a fur-lined blue kaftan with four fasteners or buttons on the chest. Wide belt, wide blue trousers and a large white turban wound round a green cap.
vI f.98 Saka, ou porteur d'eau. Sakka, a water carrier. Wearing a brown and red (leather?) tunic, which has upturned ends, similar to a carrying yoke, on the shoulders, green blouse, broad belt, bare legs, wide brown knee breeches and a very large brown turban wound in wide folds round a red cap. A whip with several thongs is tucked in his belt.
vI f.99 Ousta, cuisinier des Janissaires en cérémonie. Usta or overseer of the cooks for the Janissaries. Wearing a brown and red (leather?) tunic, which has upturned ends, similar to a carrying yoke, on the shoulders, with eight large dishes and cooking equipment which are the emblems of his rank, hanging from, or tucked into his broad gilt belt. Wide blue trousers and high red boots. White Janissary head-dress (keçe) with a green band and an empty gold plume-holder.
vI f.100 Tulumbachi, Jannissaire qui va pour éteindre le feu Tulumbacı, a member of the Janissary fire brigade carrying an axe and wearing a red singlet, a broad yellow kuşak with four folds, blue knee breeches and bare legs. He has a large white turban wound in wide folds round a square grey cap.
vI f.102 Capoudan Pacha en habit de cérémonie. Kapudan Paşa, High Admiral and Minister of Marine, wearing a green kaftan with long flaps and a brown fur lining and edging, and a tall white turban (kallâvî) tapering to a rounded end with the gold band (sarık teli) diagonally across it.
vI f.103 Capoudan Pacha en habit ordinaire. Kapudan Paşa wearing a red kaftan or binis, with wide sleeves and six gold buttons and with a brown fur lining and edging, over a white robe which has a floral design and a dark blue kuşak. Wearing a kâtibî kavuk (similar to f54 1974,0617,0.12.1.54).
vI f.104 Capoudan Pacha Hassan. Kapudan Paşa hassa, bodyguard of the Kapudan Paşa wearing three pistols in his broad grey kuşak. Green kaftan with long cuffs and brown fur lining and edging, salmon pink blouse, blue knee breeches and a broad flat white turban. He has grey hair and a grey beard.
vI f.105 Riss, ou capitaine d'un Vaisseau de guerre. Re'îs, or captain of a battleship. wearing a green kaftan which has very long sleeves and which is lined with brown fur. Wide red ankle trousers, a yellow kuşak with a dagger in it, striped robe and a round white turban of narrow strips of cloth wound around a flat red cap.
vI f.106 Galongi Tschausch. Kalyoncu çavuş. A çavuş (warrant officer) of the navy. Wearing a green kaftan with long cuffs edged with white buttons, grey striped blouse, broad red kuşak with a sword which protudes through a slit in the kaftan, wide blue trousers to the ankle and a flat red turban wound in large folds.
vI f.107 Chassas ou executeur du Capoudan Pacha. Kassas, the executioneer for the Kapudan Paşa. Wearing an orange kaftan with long cuffs, a pink blouse with lace fastening, wide blue trousers to below the knee, high red boots. He is wearing two pistols in his kuşak, and a pouch. Holding a staff in his right hand and a sword in a scabbard in the left.
vI f.108 Scriviano du Bagno. The superintendent of the prison for galley-slaves who were recruited from convicts. Wearing a slate-blue kaftan with elbow-length sleeves, white blouse, red kuşak, wide ankle-length şalvar and a tight-fitting hat with a white brim and a red crown. Holding a scroll.
vI f.109 Esclave de l'arsenal. A slave who works in the arsenal, wearing a fetter on his left ankle with the chain tucked into his red kuşak. Brown sleeveless jacket over a white blouse, pale brown knee breeches and a black close-fitting cap with a broad brim of black fur. He is carrying a brown barrel on his shoulders.
vI f.110 Galongi. Kalyoncu, a sailor. Wearing a silver (lamellar armour?) tunic with metal yokes on the shoulders and two pistols tucked into his kuşak. Wide blue şalvar, red jacket with long cuffs and a flat round brown hat.
vI f.111 Galongi. Kalyoncu, a sailor. Flat round red hat. Red jerkin with a gold design, worn over a green tunic which has long cuffs. Purple and gold blouse, grey kuşak with a pistol and wide blue trousers to the ankle.
vI f.112 Galongi de Candie. Kalyoncu or sailor from Girid or Candia (Crete). He is wearing a voluminous white hood over his head and shoulders, blue jacket with gold decoration and long cuffs, broad black kuşak, wide blue trousers to the ankle, white stockings. A sword in its scabbard is tucked into the kuşak. Black flat turban.
vI f.113 Galongi. Kalyoncu, a sailor. Wearing a green cloak, wide blue knee breeches, white stockings, a cerise blouse with a black design, slate-blue sleeveless jacket, bare arms and a flat red turban. He is holding a rapier-type sword.
vI f.115 Salma Choadar, premier officer de la Garde. Salma çuhadar, first officer of the guard and police of Istanbul. Red kaftan with brown fur lining and edging, broad green kuşak with a dagger fastened to it by a chain, wide blue ankle-length trousers. His hat has a broad astrakhan brim and a white crown. Holding a staff (asa).
vI f.116 Salma Choadar. Salma çuhadar wearing a green kaftan with brown fur lining and edging and long cuffs, wide blue ankle-length trousers, white stockings and a black astrakhan hat with a green cap.
vI f.117 Colucci de la Garde. Kullukçu, guardhouse Janissary. Wearing a very large brown turban wound in wide folds round a red cap. Brown kaftan, wide blue ankle-length trousers and a red kuşak. Holding a club in the form of a long stick with a loaded end.
vI f.119 Topgis Bachi. Topçu başı, senior officer of the artillery. Wearing a green kaftan with large sleeves, a yellow robe with a small floral pattern, a blue kuşak and a tall white turban wound round a large green cap.
vI f.120 Topgi. Topçu, artilleryman. Wearing a red jerkin, large green kuşak, blue knee breeches, bare legs and with a pouch slung over his shoulders. He is standing near a cannon, holding a smouldering fuse. Large round brown turban with a blue pom-pom.
vI f.121 Deli Bachi. Deli başı, a leader of the delis, the irregular cavalry. Wearing a red kaftan which has large sleeves and ornate fasteners and a brown fur lining. Striped robe, dark blue kuşak and a brown 'busby' type of head-dress (kuka).
vI f.122 Deli. Irregular cavalryman. Wearing a blue cloak which has long flaps, green kaftan, wide red kuşak with a dagger, attached to a chain, tucked into it. Red ankle-length trousers and a tall black astrakhan hat. A single silver fastener on the cloak.
vI f.123 Dufektchi-Bachi. Tüfekçi başı, an infantry officer and commander of a Palace guard. Cerise kaftan with long cuff and a brown fur collar and lining. Brown turban with a red cloth attached to the back and strings hanging from it.
vI f.124 Dufektchi, troupe à pied avec des fusils. Tüfekçi, an infantryman with a matchlock, flask, two pistols and an ammunition holder. Orange jacket, wide blue knee breeches and round, tightly-fitting, red cap.
vI f.125 Derebey d'Asie, chef de 1000 hommes. Derebey, a local potentate or feudal lord. Orange kaftan with gold frogging, long sleeves and a brown fur lining and edging. Brown kuşak holding two pistols and a dagger. Wide blue ankle-length trousers and a green and red striped robe. His turban is in three layers, red, green and yellow.
vI f.126 Spahi. Sipahi, a cavalryman. Orange cloak and red kuşak with two pistols stuck in it. Holding a spear in his right hand and a sword in its scabbard in the left. Wide blue ankle-length trousers and a broad white turban wound around a thick blue cap.
vI f.127 Tedikli-Aga, à la guerre, espèce de serviteur d'un Pacha à trois queues. The Gedıklı Ağa was an officer in the service of a Paşa of three horsetails (tug). Orange cloak, green jerkin, mauve blouse with a black design. Green kuşak with two pistols and an ammunition pouch. Wide blue knee breeches. Kâtibî kavuk with the large green cap.
vI f.128 Ousta, cuisinier des Degbedgis. Overseer cook of the cebecis who were the armourers attached to a special military corps. Has culinary equipment, including knives and eleven dishes, hung about him and attached to his belt. Brown and red (leather?) garment. Large round white turban wound a green cap.
vI f.129 Sirgli, soldat à cheval en barnaché de fer. Sarıca, a class of irregular militia. Cavalryman clothed in armour and wearing a short-sleeved chainmail hauberk and also leg protectors. Round helmet with curtains, nasal and plume-holder. Vambraces. Spear, Wide blue knee breeches.
vI f.130 Tartare qui court la Poste Tatar, a government messenger or courier. Brown kaftan with elbow-length sleeves. Orange kuşak with two pistols and a long-lashed whip tucked into it, Red striped blouse. Pouch. His hat has a yellow crown and an astrakhan brim.
vI f.131 Kalkanlé, espèce de soldat d'Arabie.  Kalkanlı, a man bearing a shield. Dark-skinned man wearing a scarlet jerkin, a green kuşak with two pistols in it, wide blue knee breeches. His chest, arms and legs are bare. He has an arab type turban with red and blue stripes and has a shield and sword.
vI f.132 Soldat Asiatique An Asian soldier wearing a brown jacket, wide blue knee breeches, red stockings, and a yellow kuşak holding two pistols, an ammunition pouch and powder flask, as well as a tobacco pipe. A matchlock is slung on his back. Black turban with a red cloth attachment at the back and strings hanging down each side.
vI f.133 Soldat asiatique de Brusa An Asian soldier of Bursa. Wearing a harlequin diamond-patterned jerkin in green, blue, red, yellow and white. Red and yellow kuşak in folds with a sword tucked into it. Wide blue knee breeches, bare legs, striped red blouse with long cuffs. Tall white hat with a round red top.
vI f.135 Sorgop, harlequin. Soytarı (?), a clown or buffoon. Painted face, tall cap in green and white (sivri külâhi) with an animal's tail hanging down from the end. Harlequin jerkin. Green kuşak. Brown knee breeeches, bare legs, long cuffs. Small drum and drumstick.
vI f.136 Camber, bouffon Kampanacı, mountebank. Wearing a white fur coat and a huge fur hat with four plumes. Red belt with an axe in it and a sword on a sling. Holding a drumstick and a small drum. High yellow boots.

Source: British Museum Vol I & Vol II
Made in Istanbul
Previously owned by Heinrich Friedrich von Diez
Additional ID: 22367 (British Library Reference)
Volume II of "Costumes Turcs" Diez Album
Thumbnails to the larger images of Volume I & II of "Costumes Turcs" Diez Album



See a comparison of illustrations after Octavien d'Alvimart, in Miller's Costume of Turkey, 1802 with Ottoman produced albums.



Other Albums:
I Turchi. Codex Vindobonensis 8626 of Bartolemeo von Pezzen, 1586 to 1591
Military Pictures from Peter Mundy's Album, A briefe relation of the Turckes, 1618
Military Pictures from Hans Sloan's The Habits of the Grand Signor's Court, c.1620
Pictures from the Zamoyski Album, 1640-1648
Pictures from the Ralamb Costume Book, 1657
Costumes Orientaux, Monnier's Collection of costumes and clothing of the Ottoman Empire in the 18th century, 1786. Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse Ms 65.
"Dessins originaux de costumes turcs", Bibliothèque nationale de France, MS 4-OD-23, c.1789-1807
Recueil de peintures (costumes turcs), Bibliothèque nationale de France, MS Smith-Lesouëf 228
Stratford Canning's Pictures of Turkey, c.1809, Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Album of Turkish Costume Paintings Presented to Alexander III, Tsar of Russia, 1867 - NYPL Digital Collections

Other late 18th/early 19th century Illustrations of Ottomans
Galanterieen der Türken (Gallantries of the Turks) by Christian Wilhelm Kindleben, 1783
Coloured Illustrations of Ottoman Soldiers dated 1805
Illustrations by Octavien d'Alvimart, in Miller's Costume of Turkey, 1802
Ottomans in the Augsburger Bilder, 1802-1810
Illustrations by Octavien d'Alvimart, engraved F.H. Clark, in McLean's The Military Costume of Turkey, 1813
Ottoman Soldiers from other European Illustrations

Ottoman Illustrations of Costume & Soldiers in the 15th to 19th Centuries






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